Dahlia Care

Each of your tubers has at least one viable eye and should be ready for planting.

Open and inspect your package. If there’s any damage to the box or tubers, take a picture for USPS/UPS insurance. Reach out if you need help finding a viable eye, some varieties take longer to warm up.

If your last frost day has passed and your soil average temperature is at least 60 degree Fahrenheit, you can plant your tubers directly into the soil.

Dahlias need well drained soil and full sun (6+ hours) so choose your site accordingly.

Tuber Planting: Pre-moist the soil and make a 6x6" hole for each tuber, spacing 12-20". Lay tubers horizontally with the eye/shoot facing up and backfill the hole.

Overwatering can cause tuber rot, so refrain from watering until you see sprout. If a lot of rain is forecasted, you can cover your planting area with a tarp to protect the tubers.

If you’re not ready to plant outside, you can store the tubers in the bag they came in until weather permits.

Pre-spouting: You can also pre-sprout your tubers up to 6 weeks before planting to pro-long your growing season. Place tubers in moist potting soil (not wet) in a pot, cover everything but the crown and keep in a warm place. Sprout and roots should develop. If you choose to pre-sprout the tubers, make sure to gradually harden them off before planting.

Hardening off: a week before planting, place the pots outside under a covered and shaded area for 3-4 days. In the next 2-3 days, acclimate the plants to sun exposer by leaving them under full sun for half a day and bring them under shade for the rest of day. After 5-7 days total, the plants should be ready for planting in full sun

Mycorrhizal Inoculant can be used for any tuber that has rooted to help with transplant shock and increase nutrient absorption. The Inoculant must be touching the roots for it to work

If any small sprout breaks off the tuber, no worry! More eyes will develop where it breaks off. You can also insert the sprout in rooting media to make rooted cutting.

Remember to tag your tuber with the variety name and where you get it in case mislabel occurs

Your cuttings traveled a long time in the dark and need immediate care.

Open the packaging and inspect your cuttings. If there’s any damage to the box or your plants, take a picture for USPS/UPS insurance.

If your last frost day had passed and your soil average temperature is at least 60 degree Fahrenheit, you can keep the cuttings in a cup, keep the cube moist but not soaking wet, and harden off before planting.

Hardening off: a week before planting, place the plants outside under a covered and shaded area for 3-4 days. In the next 2-3 days, acclimate the plants to sun exposer by leaving them under full sun for half a day and bring them under shade for the rest of day. After 5-7 days total, the plants should be ready for planting in full sun.

Mycorrhizal Inoculant can be used to help with transplant shock and increase nutrient absorption. The Inoculant must be touching the roots for it to work.

Planting Out: Pre-wet the soil and make a to 6x6" hole for each cutting, spacing 12-20". Remove the bottom set of leave, plant the cutting deep so that the first and second leaf nodes are under the ground level. This will encourage tuber production (see illustrations below)

Potting Up: If you’re not ready to plant outside, pot up your cuttings in a 3.5-4" pot (a plastic cup with drainage holes works too). Backfill the pot to right below the 1st set of leaves. Water with half strength fertilizer

Wait 2 days before putting them under grow light. Set the light 6" from the plant top for 14 hours/day. Soil should be dark and damp to the touch

Harden off gradually in a protected shaded area before full sun exposure. Plant the cutting deep as instructed above

Remember to tag your tuber with the variety name and where you get it in case mislabel occurs